
Leadership in the Kitchen rears it's head again. Below is a lovely piece written in the Observer. Succinctly put, irritable chefs may grab the headlines but more even tempered ones get the Michelin Stars. I know who I would rather work for.
"The truth about cheffy deportment is, of course, dull - and a real lesson in people management. Who is the nicest, happiest chef of all? Who has the most loyal, hard-working and happiest brigade of anyone in the country?
It's someone who doesn't seek the limelight much any more, a chef who, in fact, decided some years ago that the competitive sport of collecting Michelin stars is a mug's game, and retired from running the then-most successful restaurant in the country and opened a private dining club, to which restaurant-guide inspectors are not invited or welcome. It's the Swiss-British chef, Anton Mosimann who was the youngest-ever Maitre Chef des Cuisines at the Dorchester Hotel, presiding over the Michelin 2-star Terrace Room as well as the other restaurants and the hotel's huge banqueting division.
Before he did anything else in the morning, Mosimann shook the hand of every single member of the brigade (around 90). If he detected anything amiss, this young man would enquire kindly of his employee whether everything was all right at home and at work. If he detected tiredness, the cook was relieved, for this shift, from the lunch or dinner service, and put on breakfasts or tea.
His staff saw this as commiseration, not condemnation, and worked the harder for it. This, more than any recipe, cooking technique, secret ingredient or swanky setting, is the secret of Mosimann's continued success -- and it's not difficult to emulate.
Raymond Blanc doesn't shout at his staff either. Though his kitchen could not have been a picnic when he employed Marco in it. Indeed, Marco once challenged Raymond to a cook-off, and Raymond told me of how much effort he put into winning, as he knew his victory was essential for staff morale. In his memoir, Marco doesn't remember it quite that way. Indeed, he emphasises the shouting, effing and blinding in every kitchen he ever worked in, as does Gordon in his autobiography. Add to this the portrait of the chef as a Bad Boy in the books of Anthony Bourdain and Bill Buford.
But you know what? I don't believe it actually works this way. Bourdain, of course, has never worked in a good restaurant kitchen, and wouldn't know the difference. But evil-tempered chefs do not turn out (at least, not consistently) good food. The reason for the myth of the chef as a cross between Grendel's Dam and Godzilla is the usual one, the hunger for celebrity.
"Quite nice guy serves decent nosh" just doesn't cut the headline mustard. I hope Marco and
Gordon Ramsay won't issue a writ for my writing this; but, actually, I think they're both very agreeable chaps."